Canada's indigenous culture & Northern Lights

In Canada’s far-flung north, bordered by The Yukon to the west and Nunavut to the east, Canada’s Northwest Territories is a region of sprawling wilderness, sparkling lakes and native wildlife, set to a backdrop of rich indigenous culture. Sparsely populated, its 520,000 square miles are home to just 45,000 hardy inhabitants, with just under half of those residing in the capital, Yellowknife, located on the northern shore of Great Slave Lake – the second largest lake in the territory, the deepest in North America, and the 10th largest in the world. It’s a spectacular backdrop for a town founded in the mid-1930s as a centre for the gold mining industry, and later the discovery of diamonds in the surrounding rock.

It was in Yellowknife that my trip began. After an Air Canada flight from London to Vancouver, followed by a four-hour hop north, I found myself in a small but well organised arrivals hall, complete with a baggage carousel adorned with a gigantic polar bear. Quirky, yes, but also a reminder that this vast territory stretches all the way north, into the Arctic Circle, to these great mammal’s favoured hunting grounds on the edge of the Arctic Ocean.

While my time in the region wouldn’t take in such remote areas, three days in Yellowknife would prove to be a wonderful introduction to the Northwest Territories’ magnificent natural world. But first, the city itself…

Excursions in and around Yellowknife

In between restful nights at the comfortable and well-located Explorer Hotel, my base for the first part of my trip, I set out with my group to explore, beginning with a thrilling helicopter flight over the city and its immediate surrounds. There can be few better ways to be introduced to a city, with a spectacular aerial view right over the downtown area to the lake and forests beyond. We even circled over the golf course, which is made entirely from sand and requires players to carry a patch of astroturf around to play each shot. It would be no surprise if Yellowknife produced some of the finest bunker players on the professional circuit.

In between flights – our group of eight took it in turns – there was the opportunity to explore some of the sights near the helicopter base. As well as the Yellowknife sign – a city landmark – our excellent guide brought us to a disused gold mine, where rusted vehicles and rundown huts provided an atmospheric and somewhat earie visual insight into the city’s unique heritage. Then, the town’s history was brought further to life by way of an indigenous storytelling tour, led by the affable and superbly engaging Joe Bailey of North Star Adventures. Raised by his grandparents in the traditions of the local Dene people, he shared captivating stories of his personal experiences of living off the land while leading us among the sights of the old town and the exhibits at the Prince of Wales Heritage Museum, home to everything from the tools of trapping to a handcrafted canoe.

While the first day packed in an abundance of highlights, the next two would prove to be equally engaging, enjoyable, and intriguing. Saturday began with a tour of Natures North Wildlife Gallery, where local Greg Robertson has turned taxidermy into an art form. Sourcing animals remains from road kills and indigenous hunters, his exhibit tells the story of the wildlife of the Northwest Territories, showcasing their unique behaviours in a series of thrillingly posed pieces which demonstrate the relationships between species, and the habitats in which they live. From a personal perspective, I had my reservations about the gallery, but the storytelling and sheer passion for the work presented by Greg left certainly changed my mind. This gallery might not be for everyone, but for me it was a pleasant surprise.

A walking tour of the Old Town, and a glass-etching workshop, wrapped up my second day in Yellowknife. The walking tour was excellent, led by Rich from Sundog Adventures, a company who also run the Sundog Trading post, our lunch spot on day two. Knowledgeable, articulate and entertaining, Rich led us through some of the cities more eclectic neighbourhoods, bringing us from the Pilot’s Monument with its 360-degree views, down through winding streets lined with houses from the 30s and 40s, to the Woodyard District, where artsy cabins and waterfront dwellings run along quiet streets with names such as Ragged Ass Road. Heading right down to the waterfront, we were treated to views across to the houseboat community, of which Rich is a fully fledged member. Home to everyone from artists to miners, this colourful collection of homes is 100% off grid, with fuel, and rules, made by the community themselves – it’s a very different way of living.

It was with another member of Yellowknife’s bohemian brigade that we wrapped up our day two’s daytime explorations. It’s fair to say that glass etching has never been near the top of my personal bucket list, but this turned out to be a standout highlight. And, once again, it was the person, rather that the activity itself, that made this so special. Founder of Yellownife Glassworks, Matthew Grogono, is a unique character, building seemingly everything in his workshop from scratch – his glass cutter was constructed from parts of an old running machine – and running an interesting sideline in cycle recycling, Indeed, recycling in general formed much of his raison d’etre, so much so that he ran for city mayor off the back of his plans to improve the way recycling was managed in the Northwest Territories. He almost won, too, even though he didn’t want to. And so it was that we spent an extraordinary two hours in Matthew’s company, hearing yarn after yarn and listening to Beatles records, while actually creating a passable piece of glassware, which is currently on display in my kitchen. What a time!

Now, day three of my stay in the Northwest Territories saw us leave Yellowknife behind for Blachford Lake Lodge, more of which below. But, when we returned, and before our midnight flight to Toronto, there was still time for one more tour – a cultural experience with North of 60 Adventures. At their site outside of the city limits, backdropped by pristine boreal forest, this small, family-run operation offers the chance to learn about indigenous arts and crafts, cook Bannock bread over an open fire, and meet a team of trained huskies who, in winter, run guided sleds out into the wilds. Fun and fascinating, it was a wonderful way to sign off from the city, with the chance to enjoy a spot of indigenous wrestling, and even axe throwing, among an afternoon of highlights.

Northern Lights in Yellowknife

At 62.5 degrees north, Yellowknife is around 250 miles south of the Arctic Circle. Yet, despite this southerly location – particularly when compared to its Nordic counterparts – the city and its wilderness surroundings are host to some of the most spectacular aurora displays on Earth. So why? Well, it’s all due to the position of the auroral oval – the area of highest aurora activity – which dips south right over the Northwest Territories, all the way to the northern shores of Great Slave Lake. Couple that with often-clear skies and you have the perfect conditions for viewing the Northern Lights’ multi-coloured swirls. What’s more, while our Nordic neighbours’ Northern Lights seasons get started in September, in this part of Canada things kick off as early as August, with the lights on display right through until April, save for a short spell in early winter when the skies cloud and the snow arrives.

You can make the most of these ideal conditions on a wide range of Northern Lights experiences, in the company of operators based in the city. With three nights to enjoy the show, we were fortunate enough to test-drive a range of options, details as follows:

Northern Lights Village

On our first night in Yellowknife, we were collected from our hotel by one of a small army of buses operated by Northern Lights Village, a popular aurora-viewing spot around 15 kilometres out of town. With capacity for as many as 400 guests, it feels quite busy when you arrive, but with a collection of tipis spread out through the forest, and a number of secluded viewing spots, the crowds soon disperse, leaving you to find a spot all to yourself. That said, of the three experiences I tried, this one felt the least personal. Still, with hot chocolate on tap and a clear night sky, we were hopeful of seeing our first aurora of the trip, and we weren’t to be disappointed. Indeed, within half an hour of our arrival, great green swirls appeared in the skies north of the village and, while these weren’t the strongest displays, we were still able to grab some excellent photos, not least with the help of the resident cameraman, who grabbed portraits of everyone as the perfect Northern Lights keepsake.

Bucket-list Tours Private Cabin

For me, this was the best Northern Lights viewing of the trip. Departing the hotel at 9:30pm, we were whisked off to a private and beautifully appointed cabin in the wilderness, where a wood-burning stove, delicious soup and homemade Bannock bread were waiting. Here, owner Tracy regaled us with stories of the aurora, and her adventures in the Northwest Territory wilderness as we waited for the lights to appear. And, when they did, and we stepped out onto the specially constructed viewing deck beside a roaring fire, they were nothing short of spectacular – great ribbons of green and purple, literally dancing across the night sky, seemingly so close you could reach out and touch them. It was a genuine ‘pinch-me’ moment, and one that will stay with me for a very long time indeed.

Aurora Hunting with North Star Adventures

Our third and final Northern Lights experience was an aurora hunting tour with North Star Adventures. And, while the lights didn’t make an appearance on this occasion – there are no guarantees with nature, after all – it was still an enjoyable experience, made all the more memorable by our guide, the same Joe Bailey who conducted our excellent indigenous storytelling tour earlier in the trip. While it must certainly be a challenge for any guide when the star of the show fails to turn up, Joe carried on the hunt regardless, taking us out to a series of locations not only in the hope of clearing skies, but also to share more fascinating tales of the aurora, the science behind them, and their importance to the indigenous people of the Northwest Territories.

Dining in Yellowknife

Delicious burgers, fresh fish, smoked meats and craft beer, dining in Yellowknife is excellent and varied. Lunches, bursting with flavour and fresh ingredients, were enjoyed at a range of venues across the city, from the superb Sun Dog Trading Post with its excellent chowder, hearty sandwiches and spectacular cinnamon buns, to the popular Woodyard / NWT Brewing Company, the territory’s only registered brewery.

Dinners were also a delight, with the likes of elk burgers and Arctic char on offer at the hotel’s Trader’s Grill, and freshly made pizza at the lively Copper House, which also served some delicious cocktails. For me, though, the best of the bunch was Bullocks Bistro. While this delightful eatery may appear a little rough around the edges, its simple menu was a truly tasty chance to sample the finest fish from the territory, including the likes of whitefish (my choice), Great Slave cod, lake trout and pickerel, all served with a simple side salad, chips and a delicious house teriyaki dressing. When you’re picking your places to dine in the city, this one has to be on the menu.

Blachford Lake Lodge

The perfect add-on to a stay in Yellowknife, Blachford Lake Lodge offers the chance to truly embrace the great sprawling wilderness of Canada’s Northwest Territories. With no roads, it’s only reachable only by float plane from Yellowknife’s Air Tindi terminal, a half-hour flight bringing guests over and impenetrable landscape of sparce boreal forests and a seemingly endless network of lakes. For those travelling in autumn, it’s a brilliant carpet of autumnal colours. Then, as the float plane lands on the lake itself, the lodge finally comes into view, perched on a rocky outcrop surrounded by larch trees and dotted with the cabins that make up half of the newly refurbished accommodation.

Stepping off the plane and onto a small jetty, the lodge’s staff are on hand to meet and greet, with luggage being taken off to your cabin or room. It’s a short climb up the rocky shore to reach the main lodge, where we were met by a light breakfast, freshly brewed coffee and stunning views from huge picture windows, which face south over the forest-framed lake. It’s a wonderful spot to relax and take it all in, with comfy sofas, a small lounge with a selection of books and games, and large tables which are used as the dining area for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Indeed, the food here is a genuine highlight, with fresh, local produce flown in with guests from Yellowknife and prepared to perfection by the lodge’s talented head chef. Across two full days, we were treated to succulent beef, fresh fish and a delicious range of accompaniments, with all tastes and requirements catered for.

This lounge-cum-dining room is also the meeting place for a full range of activities, with a programme discussed and agreed between guests and the hotel staff. As such, you might choose to hike or fat bike within the surrounding forests, or head out on the lake in kayaks and canoes, while fishing trips are also available, more of which shortly.

First, though, to the accommodation. When choosing your room type, it’s perhaps worth remembering that a certain Prince and Princess of Wales (then the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge), William and Kate stayed here as part of their ‘honeymoon’ tour in 2011. Pre-refurbishment, the royal couple opted for one of three sunrise rooms, located in the main lodge (a pair of sunset rooms are also available). Now fully upgraded with modern en-suites, king beds and spectacular lake views, these delightful rooms come with convenient access directly from the dining room and lounge which, for winter stays in particular, avoids a potentially chilly (sometimes sub-zero) walk to one of five cabins, which are dotted throughout the wooded grounds and strung out along the lake shore. Offering unmatched seclusion and stunning views from private verandas, these cabins are, for me, a particular delight, with fire pits and wooden chairs often situated on nearby rocky outcrops, jutting above the water’s edge. For early risers, the sunrise views are unmatched, while at night the added darkness lends itself to excellent aurora viewing. It was in one of these – Beaver Lodge – that I stayed, enjoying two nights of immaculate peace and quiet, with no TV in sight and the lakeside sauna just a minute’s stroll away. Perfect.

Finally, then, to the activities, the beating heart and adventurous soul of the Blachford Lodge experience. Of course, the options available depend entirely on the season, and weather conditions during your stay. For us, autumn meant delightful hikes into the hills, fat biking on forest trails and kayaking, canoeing and stand-up paddle boarding on the lake. All of these are led by the excellent and wonderfully enthusiastic staff, who know the terrain, and the best viewpoints, like the backs of their hands. Then, from mid-August right through to spring, evenings can be spend aurora gazing either from a teepee located on a rocky outcrop, or from the hot tub, which is perched delightfully between the lodge and lakeshore. 

Personally, I like to be active, so I took every opportunity to get out into nature, with the absolute highlight being an afternoon fishing excursion. I must say, this was the one activity I was dubious about – I have absolutely no interest in fishing whatsoever – but joining the trip proved to be a wise decision indeed. Heading out on a small motorboat after another delicious lunch, we headed east with the sun at our backs, travelling for over an hour to a far-flung corner of the lake, pausing to spot ospreys and golden eagles in treetop nests. Then, at our destination, we cast off, with my first effort hooking an enormous pike, which we duly reeled in, only for it to break the net and escape back into the murky depths. Not to be deterred, we spent a whole enjoyable hour in that one sun-drenched spot, landing several more pikes of varying shapes and sizes, each time pausing for a quick pic before releasing them back into the wild. 

Of course, those that head here in winter can expect an altogether different experience, as hikes on foot make way for hikes on snowshoes, and kayaks and canoes are replaced by snowmobiles as the landscapes freeze in temperatures that plunge well below -20ºC.

No matter when you visit, though, be sure to make time for a sauna. Overlooking the lake on the headland’s southern shore, it’s the perfect spot to relax. Before the lake freezes over, there’s also the chance for a plunge in the lake – a wonderfully refreshing experience.