Peru: An expert's guide

Wexas Travel's Rachel Mostyn has recently returned from a journey through Peru. Here, on this comprehensive guide, she takes us through some of her highlights including incredible landscapes, delicious food, a fascinating history and vibrant culture, as well as recommending her favourite places to stay throughout.

Getting to Lima

While Air Europa offered a budget-friendly way to reach Lima from Gatwick with a connection in Madrid, it came with limitations. As a budget airline, they only provided one small meal on the lengthy 11-hour flight, and charged extra for amenities like headphones and even seat selection. The cramped seating also detracted from the comfort of the journey. I would therefore highly recommend flying with either LATAM or Iberia for a more comfortable journey, again with a stop in Madrid.

Must-See Sights in Lima: History and Cuisine

Lima itself offered a delightful experience. We embarked on a fantastic half-day city tour of the historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This vibrant area boasts stunning churches and squares, perfect for daytime exploration. However, it's advisable to consider alternative areas for your stay. A visit to Casa de Aliaga is a must for history buffs, a stunning colonial house dating back to 1536. It perfectly encapsulates the city's evolution, having been home to 16 generations of the Aliaga family for over 480 years. Foodies won't be disappointed either! We had a delicious lunch at Casa Tambo, a fantastic restaurant located in the centre. Peruvian cuisine is exceptional, and I highly recommend trying a food tour for a broader culinary adventure.

Plaza Mayor, in historic Lima

Picking your Lima hotel

Casa Andina Premium (Miraflores)

This spacious hotel offers a convenient location in Miraflores, making it a good choice for budget-minded travellers seeking a comfortable stay. While it falls short of a true 5-star experience, the large rooms and central location make it a solid mid-range option. Be aware that the hotel might feel a bit dated, and the showers could be better.

Hotel B (Barranco)

Craving a charming and bohemian vibe? Look no further than Hotel B. This boutique gem in Barranco boasts a relaxed atmosphere with fantastic communal areas, including several bars and a rooftop option. As a Relais & Chateaux property, it offers a unique experience with personalised service and three distinct room categories to choose from.

Belmond Miraflores Park (Miraflores)

For a luxurious stay in Miraflores, I'd suggest considering the Belmond Miraflores Park. Located in a quiet area close to Larco Mar shopping and restaurants, this hotel pampers guests with a rooftop pool, spa, and excellent dining options. Upgrade to a suite and enjoy the ultimate indulgence with a private sauna or outdoor plunge pool.

Iberostar Hotel (Miraflores)

This hotel is located in Miraflores and has fantastic sea views and a great roof top bar and swimming pool. The entrance and ground floor restaurant lack appeal but decent sized rooms and the rooftop make up this.

Belmond Miraflores Park

Arequipa: Food, Culture, and Breathtaking Views

My Peruvian adventure continued in Arequipa, the "White City." Despite some initial LATAM booking challenges, their service was excellent. The online check-in 48 hours prior to the flight was convenient, and onward flights were automatically checked-in with boarding passes emailed for ease. Our ground handler has arranged our transfers, and they did not disappoint. They included a driver and guide who even assisted with checking our bags and navigating the Arequipa airport. Upon arrival, we embarked on a culinary tour, sampling Arequipa's amazing cuisine including alpaca, guinea pig, and the intriguing Queso Helado (cheese ice cream!). The creativity and unique ingredients in Peruvian cuisine were a true highlight, making the food tour a must-do for food lovers.

The next day, a city tour unfolded, taking us beyond the city limits to the Yanahuara and Carmen Alto viewpoints. Here, breathtaking panoramas of the city, countryside, and the majestic Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu volcanoes awaited us. Arequipa itself, true to its nickname, is built with white volcanic stone (ashlar) evident in its buildings' portals and the imposing, neo-Renaissance style Cathedral with Gothic influences. The main square offered a picture-perfect scene with the Misti volcano as a backdrop.

But, a visit to Arequipa wouldn't be complete without exploring the Monastery of Santa Catalina. This captivating complex boasts colourful buildings and charming courtyards. We also ventured to the Juanita Museum, which showcased the incredibly preserved remains of a 12-year-old Inca girl sacrificed to the gods in the 1450s. Nicknamed "Juanita," she offers a glimpse into Inca sacrificial practices and stands as a testament to Andean mummification techniques.

Red walls of Santa Catalina monastery in Arequipa,

Picking your Arequipa hotel

Casa Andina Premium

This is my usual pick, but be warned: the rooms in the new wing are not particularly characterful. Opt for an upgrade to the older section for a better experience. It also lacks the stunning views of the Casa Andina Select Arequipa Plaza, as the rooftop only has the spa. However, the it does offer higher-quality upgraded rooms.

Casa Andina Select Arequipa Plaza

This hotel really did surprise me! It's simpler than the Casa Andina Premium, with basic rooms, but the location is unbeatable - right on the main plaza near the cathedral. Plus, it has a fantastic rooftop pool, restaurant, and bar overlooking the square.

Cirqa (Relais & Chateaux)

This beautiful colonial building boasts lovely rooms, but the downside is the darkness. With minimal natural light, some might find it quite stuffy. While the rooftop bar and restaurant are beautiful, the small pool offers little in the way of privacy.

Katari

Located on the main square, Katari offers fantastic rooftop bar views, possibly the best in Arequipa, showcasing the square and the majestic Misti volcano. Unfortunately, I couldn't see the rooms, but it seems the upgraded ones are the way to go, as the standard rooms appear small and simple.

Casa Andina Premium, Arequipa

Lake Titicaca: A Journey to the High Waters

My adventure to Lake Titicaca began with a scenic road trip from Arequipa to Puno, a journey of about 5-6 hours. The landscapes along the way were breathtaking. We stopped at Pampa Cañahuas, where we spotted graceful vicunas, and Lagunillas alongside stunning views of crystal-clear lagoons. Alpacas and llamas were also our companions on this high-altitude journey. To combat the effects of the elevation, chewing coca leaves and sipping muña tea, a local Andean mint infusion, are highly recommended.

The next day, we embarked on a boat trip to the intriguing Uros Islands and the charming village of Llachón. Opting for a private speedboat ensured a comfortable and swift journey. The boat was well-equipped, offering a toilet, comfortable seating inside, and even an open-air deck. The floating Uros Islands, constructed entirely of reeds, were a sight to behold. Here, we encountered a unique ethnic group who, according to National Geographic, arrived in Puno a staggering 3700 years ago. Their ability to live on these floating abodes is a testament to human ingenuity. While their way of life is fascinating, it's important to be aware that tourism plays a significant role in their economy, and they may try to sell their handcrafted goods.

Llachón, located on the mainland close to the Uros Islands, boasts a beautiful setting with captivating views of the lake. This peaceful village offers basic homestays, ideal if you're looking for a serene yet simple retreat. We had the heartwarming experience of sharing lunch with a local family, who later introduced us to the traditional art of weaving and crafting wristbands.

Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world

Picking your Lake Titicaca hotel

GHL Lago Titicaca Hotel

This is where we stayed – just outside of the city of Puno. The hotel itself is a large unattractive building and the communal areas are comfortable and spacious but has very much the feel of a conference hotel. The views however are absolutely stunning and all the rooms have a lake view, either sunset or sunrise facing. The sunrises were amazing and the rooms have huge panoramic windows so you can really appreciate the views.

Casa Andina Premium

Right next door is Casa Andina Premium. This hotel offers a more aesthetically pleasing experience with lovely common areas and spacious rooms. It might even be my favourite Casa Andina property! While the lake views here are still fantastic, they can't quite compete with the breathtaking panoramas from GHL Lago.

Floating homes on the islands of Uros

The Sacred Valley: Off the Beaten Path

While train journeys are scenic, we opted for a unique road adventure from Puno to the Sacred Valley. This allowed for fascinating stops and breathtaking landscapes, often mirroring the train route. Our first stop was the Pucara Museum, showcasing ancient artefacts from the Pucara culture. Next, we reached La Raya, the highest point on the journey, where we soaked in the panoramic vistas - a stop the train makes too. Finally, we explored the impressive Raqch'i complex, featuring the Wiracocha Temple and the beautiful San Pedro Apóstol Church.

This extended journey (around 12 hours) ended in style. The following day, we arrived at Maras, a village offering stunning views of the iconic salt mines. These thousands of salt pools, owned by local families, create a mesmerising mosaic. The intense sun evaporates the water, leaving behind salt harvested using traditional methods. Moray, our next stop, is an archaeological marvel resembling a natural amphitheater. Believed to be an agricultural research centre, its terraced design created various microclimates allowing for diverse crops. We then immersed ourselves in the traditional Andean life at Misminay. Warmly welcomed with music and dances, we participated in daily activities like planting, harvesting, and textile work. We even had lunch, featuring a delicious dessert made from one of Peru's 4,000 varieties of potatoes!

The next day, we embarked on a Sacred Valley hike. Our journey began at Pumamarca, an Inca fortress perched on a hilltop. This 15th-century marvel showcases Inca ingenuity with its stone platforms and water channels. In the afternoon, we climbed the ruins of Ollantaytambo, an ancient Inca town with a mix of military, religious, and agricultural significance. While bustling with tourists, the town's imposing fortress stands as a testament to Inca power.

Agricultural terraces in the Sacred Valley

Picking your Sacred Valley hotel

Explora Sacred Valley

We stayed here and loved the property. It is set on its own down an unpaved road in a peaceful setting surrounded by cornfields and mountains. The hotel has a bright airy feel about it and made mostly from wood. The rooms are very spacious with a jacuzzi bathtub and separate rain shower. There is a lovely pool and outdoor jacuzzi area set slightly apart from the hotel by walking past a cornfield. Service is excellent here and it is possible to do either bed and breakfast or an all-inclusive package. They have their own guides who will sit down with guests each evening to discuss what activities they can do the next day. Their focus is very much on hiking and will progress people to different hiking levels depending on how they have adapted to the altitude. We already had excursions booked through our ground handler, but I would suggest doing the all-inclusive package and opting for their included tours.

Sol y Luna

This is a lovely Relais and Chateau property with charming casita-style accommodation, a couple of restaurants and an outdoor pool. The casitas have a lovely warm and inviting ambiance to them. The other nice thing about Sol y Luna is their foundation. The foundation consists of the Sol y Luna School, Paqari for special needs support, the Sol y Luna Home, and Roots & Wings for further education. The hotel also has its own horses.

Belmond Rio Sagrado

Another good high end option in the Sacred Valley. Spacious rooms with views are the draw here. There are some lovely communal and outdoor areas including the outdoor pool. 

Sonesta Posadas del Inca Yucay

Lovely colonial building from the outside and a great place to stay. While the colonial exterior is captivating, the property is larger than it appears, consisting of several different buildings and has quite a few restaurants. The original colonial building has very creaky floorboards so could be quite noisy, but overall a nice hotel of a good standard.

Sol y Luna, in the heart of the Sacred Valley

Machu Picchu by Train

Reaching the magnificent Machu Picchu involves a scenic train journey. Two main operators, Peru Rail and Inca Rail, offer a range of train options to suit different budgets and preferences. On our trip, we enjoyed the panoramic views offered by the Vistadome Observatory train on the way out, followed by the immersive experience of Inca Rail's 360° service for the return journey. Both journeys included light snacks and drinks, along with some light entertainment.

Peru Rail boasts a variety of train classes, including the Expedition, Vistadome (our favorite), Vistadome Observatory, and the luxurious Belmond Hiram Bingham. Inca Rail offers options like the Voyager, The Premium and Lounge, The 360°, The First Class, and The Private. The most frequent train services operate between Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu town, a scenic journey lasting around two hours. Reaching Cusco from Ollantaytambo requires a separate two-hour trip by road. For those staying overnight in Machu Picchu, a convenient luggage transfer system is available. Upon arrival, your overnight bag will be whisked away to your hotel, while your main suitcase gets transferred seamlessly from your Sacred Valley hotel to your Cusco hotel.

Regular buses connect Machu Picchu town with Machu Picchu itself. Your return bus ticket is linked to your designated entry time for Machu Picchu, ensuring a smooth flow of visitors. Currently, four circuits navigate Machu Picchu, with circuit 2 being the most popular. To conquer even more breathtaking views, I'd recommend purchasing a separate ticket to climb Huayna Picchu. Regardless of the chosen circuit, prepare to be awestruck by the magnificent views of Machu Picchu.

The ancient site of Machu Picchu

Picking your Machu Picchu hotel

Belmond Sanctuary Lodge

We didn’t visit the hotel but worth mentioning as right next to the entrance of Machu Picchu. There is little advantage to staying here as you get no views of Machu Picchu and the area right outside the hotel is where everyone congregates to get in and out of Machu Picchu. I really wouldn’t recommend staying here as the area is super busy.

Sumaq

This beautiful and stylish hotel sits in the heart of Machu Picchu town, right by the river. The rooms and common areas are lovely, and we had a fantastic tasting lunch there – the food, wine, and cocktails were all superb. However, keep in mind that Sumaq isn't located directly at Machu Picchu itself, so you might need to arrange transportation.

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo

This charming and authentic hotel boasts beautiful tropical grounds near the train station. The Superior and Deluxe Casitas offer a unique experience with individual decor featuring Andean textiles and colonial-style furniture. They also have a selection of suites available.

Sumaq, in Aguas Calientes, near Machu Picchu

Cusco: Incan history and flavours

Today's adventure unfolded in the majestic city of Cusco, Peru. We began with a captivating exploration of Sacsayhuaman, a monumental Inca fortress perched on a hill overlooking the city. Its colossal carved stone walls stand as a testament to the remarkable engineering prowess of the Inca civilisation. The panoramic views of Cusco from this vantage point were truly breathtaking.

Delving deeper into the heart of Cusco, we arrived at the city's main square, a vibrant plaza brimming with colonial architecture. The majestic cathedral, with its intricate details, stole the show. We then ventured to Koricancha, a site steeped in history. Once a revered centre of sun worship during the Incan era, it later transformed into the Santo Domingo convent, a symbol of the Spanish conquest. The blend of baroque facades seamlessly integrated with the sturdy Inca foundations beautifully embodies the city's unique fusion of traditions.

As the afternoon sun dipped below the horizon, we enjoyed on a delightful cocktail tour through Cusco's historic centre. We visited three distinct bars, each offering a glimpse into the city's vibrant culinary scene. We also learnt the art of crafting Pisco cocktails, with the iconic Pisco Sour taking centre stage.

Cusco, the historic capital of Peru

Picking your Cusco hotel

Palacio Manco Capac by Ananay Hotels

This is a beautiful hotel on top of the hill overlooking Cusco and the main plaza. It is very close to San Blas so getting in and out of Cusco isn’t far at all, and the views from here are worth it. The hotel itself is lovely and full of character and also very peaceful. We had canapés and fizz after the site inspection and the food was excellent, with exceptional service.

Belmond Palacio Nazarenas

This former convent has been restored to what is now one of the most exclusive hotels in Cusco. The suites are lovely with fantastic facilities including a bar with espresso and tea making facilities, nibbles and pisco station. There is a very peaceful outdoor pool and several lovely terraces and patios. Like most of the hotels we visited, there is a spa and I suspect this one is better than most.

Belmond Palacio Nazarenas is in the centre of Cusco