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3 September 2026 by Iliana Todorova
Some journeys simply take you to new places; others make a profound impression that stays with you long after you return home. My recent trip to Verona, pairing a stay at the palatial Due Torri Hotel with a luxurious rail journey on the iconic Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express, certainly fell into the latter category; a symphony of history, romance, culture and culinary traditions that took me back in time to a bygone era.
Impressions of Verona
Verona has a particular magic; it seduces slowly. It doesn’t need to announce itself. Instead, it quietly draws you in. Walking its ancient streets, between Roman ruins and elegant piazzas, one can hear the whispers of the past echoing through the city. The rich and powerful story of Verona's history gets revealed through the legacy of its most influential residents – the Della Scala family – a dominant noble dynasty that governed Verona and much of the surrounding Veneto region for over a century, from 1262 until 1387.
Yet Verona is so much more than its ancient past. It’s a city of world-class opera, fine architecture, exquisite cuisine and vibrant culture, and I was eager to discover as much as possible during my short stay. Beneath the Roman stones lies a city steeped in passion and legends. The very setting that once sheltered Dante Alighieri and inspired Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet is now a sophisticated world of Italian Renaissance design, intimate wine bars, fabulous restaurants and the enduring theatre of everyday life.
Summer scenes from Verona
Coming back for a 24-hour tour of Verona, only a few years after my first visit here, I was just as excited about the pre-arranged programme as I was for the artisanal gelato and chocolate at the good old Venchi adjacent to the Juliet's house (now Scaravelli Gelateria). After a warm welcome and a swift check-in at the Due Torri Hotel, we were led on a special site tour in the footsteps of the Scaligeri family, Mozart, Goethe, Maria Callas and other luminaries of their age. I could sense the centuries-old history still alive – illustrated through the medium of carefully curated frescoes and paintings adorning the palazzo's walls; carved in every element of Venetian decor and distinguished rooms; shared in the little moments of appreciation between its attentive personnel and the guests.
Originally built in the 14th century as the Palazzo dell'Aquila and serving as guest quarters for the Della Scala lords of Verona, staying here felt less like checking into a five-star hotel and more like becoming the latest character in an unfinished European novel. Within its historic surroundings, one cannot help wondering about the conversations and artistic moments that unfolded here long before our arrival. Aside from the imperial lobby area and sweeping rooftop vistas, some highlights for me included the Suite St. Anastasia, offering a spacious living room and a grand bedroom divided by a sliding door, and the Deluxe Suite Maria Callas featuring the only balcony looking over the Piazza Santa Anastasia and the adjacent Basilica Santa Anastasia, where once admirers of the famous opera singer Maria Callas would gather.
Due Torre Hotel, Verona
A carpeted long corridor led to my Classic room on the third floor; finished in antique yellow and brown tones, the space honoured the signature style and authentic framed paintings on display around the property. An extremely comfortable bed and rose marble bathroom certainly made for an inviting space to relax, especially after a long day of exploring. Above all, Due Torri's prime central location overlooking the Basilica of Santa Anastasia allowed me to navigate around all major points of interest within easy reach on foot.
Wandering through the famous Piazza dei Signori and the Piazza delle Erbe, the afternoon involved a visit to the Palazzo Maffei Museum for a cultural deep-dive into ancient art and modern masterpieces, including the odd Picasso or Boccioni piece. I then headed to the Ponte Pietra for a climb to Castel San Pietro – there's truly no better spot to admire a panoramic view of Verona. A dedicated funicular service is a good option to skip the steps if one prefers to, but I had some energy to burn that day. From the hills above, it's easy to lose track of time while taking in the views of the historic buildings and the rushing waters of Adige River down below.
Beyond the obvious sights, Verona rewards curiosity. So, I also enjoyed some time exploring quiet medieval courtyards, artisan boutiques and the lesser-known corners of the old city before an evening of opera and well-deserved rest.
Food and wine connoisseurs will find their secret heaven in hidden gems scattered across Verona. From more traditional places such as La Taverna di Via Stella, where local recipes are given a new spin, to the likes of elevated trattoria experiences such as the historic Antica Bottega Del Vino – a wine institution offering an impressive 4,500 different labels from across five continents (that's 18,000-20,000 bottles stored in their cellar alone!) – one is never short of options to delight the palette. Fine dining venues also abound, including the Michelin-starred Casa Perbellini 12 Apostoli and Ristorante Il Desco, while other Michelin guide recommendations like La Loggia Bistrò, Darì and Locanda 4 Cuochi certainly make the cut for a special night in the city.
The Verona Opera Experience
An evening performance at Arena di Verona
One of Verona's cultural stage highlights during the summer season is the Opera Festival at Arena di Verona, and I couldn't miss the opportunity to see Puccini’s Turandot under the open Italian sky. Over 110 performers filled the stage of this ancient colosseum with their magnificent presence – costumes, acoustics and stagework all captivated the audience in equal measure. Surrounded by ancient Roman stone and the extraordinary voices of the performers, opera feels completely at home here.
I had to call it a night before too long, though, as another exciting day awaited the following morning.
All aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient Express
After our delicious continental breakfast at the Due Torri, we were brought to Verona Porta Nuova station in anticipation of boarding the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. As soon as the train stops, a plush red carpet is rolled out by the stewards for guests to start the journey in fitting style. Before long, we embarked on our much-anticipated adventure aboard this timeless icon of luxury rail travel. Art Deco interiors, polished wood, impeccable service and the gentle rhythm of the rails paint a picture unlike any conventional luxury holiday. Dining is an occasion in and of itself; conversation is a ceremony; the passing landscape turns into a moving painting, and the journey itself becomes the destination.
Beautifully dressed carriages and white-glove service create an ambience that modern luxury rarely manages to replicate. Luxury here is not excess; it’s an atmosphere rooted in deep-rooted heritage and the rare opportunity to travel through Europe as though time itself has opened a secret door. Settling into the carriage with a glass in hand, watching the Italian countryside slip slowly beyond the window, I found myself becoming aware of the pleasure of travelling without rushing towards the next destination. I had plenty of time to dress up for dinner, time to talk, time to watch the landscape change and, perhaps most importantly, time to simply enjoy being there.
Our short stop in Innsbruck was filled with breathtaking scenery and fresh Alpine air – just what I needed after a rather hot start to the day. The air-conditioning on the train was so effective that I couldn't tell we were in the middle of an August heatwave in Europe.
Dining in the restaurant carriages is shaped by beautifully presented dishes, impeccable service and utmost glamour. Dressed up for the evening, I was ready to embrace the occasion – one of timeless elegance and 1930s charm engulfing guests all around. Later, the bar unfolds before your eyes as the natural gathering place, so if you wish to linger over a nightcap or sing along with the band while the train carries you through the darkness – you’re welcome to do so.
What struck me most was how immersive the experience felt. Every detail encourages you to slow down and become part of the story – you write the pages as you please. The gentle movement of the train, the sound of conversation, the clink of glasses and the changing scenery outside create a certain ambience that simply cannot be recreated in any other mode of transport.
Those who appreciate design, gastronomy and exceptional service are in for a treat; every carriage offers something to admire. And for the seasoned luxury traveller who has already experienced the world's finest hotels, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express offers something altogether unique: L'Observatoire. This luxurious private sleeper carriage, designed by the contemporary artist and photographer JR, is an artwork in motion. Fancy a peaceful time in the enclosed library, sitting by the fire or laying beside the window? Feel the artistic urge to draw a sketch or, perhaps, to take a relaxing bath in your bedroom? You may opt for as little or as much as you like aboard the most opulent train in the world.
Closing thoughts
The beauty of this itinerary is the contrast. This experience is great for couples, literary and history enthusiasts, discerning foodies, opera devotees, collectors of beautiful memories and travellers who value authenticity as much as exclusivity, opulence as much as warm, personalised service. The diamond in this crown is perhaps the journey itself: gliding effortlessly through the spectacular landscapes of Alpine Europe in unparalleled comfort and style. That's not just a luxury holiday, but a chance to relive a bygone era, from Verona’s ancient streets and squares to the vintage glamour of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.
