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27 October 2026 by Charlie Pritchard
During a hosted stay at Ottolire Resort in Puglia, Wexas' Italy specialist Charlie Pritchard set out to discover what makes this corner of the country so special. Combining explorations of the Itria Valley's iconic hill towns with hands-on culinary experiences, countryside cycling and memorable encounters with local culture, his journey revealed a region defined by warmth and authenticity. Here, Charlie shares his impressions of one of Puglia's most characterful luxury retreats and the experiences that make it such a rewarding addition to a tailor-made Italian escape.
In early October I was lucky enough to be hosted by Ottolire Resort for a long weekend. A family-run rural property located amongst olive groves and traditional trulli houses, Ottolire Resort is one of the most authentic accommodation options you can find in Puglia and certainly one of the most luxurious. The hotel is managed by Erasmo Piccoli and his wife Anastasia who attended each part of the fantastic programme organised by the hotel during my stay. Erasmo’s parents first came upon the land in 1973 and purchased a collection of abandoned trulli. Today, the resort consists of twenty unique and lovingly appointed rooms and suites which Erasmo has overseen during expansion and renovation. Despite the changes made to the hotel over the years, Ottolire retains an authentic charm combined with a freshness that has come with the property stepping in to it’s status as one of the region’s most high-end places to stay.
Ottolire Resort is located just over one hour by car from Bari Airport and our first stop upon arrival was in Polignano a Mare, one of the region’s most iconic coastal towns. With white-washed buildings set above the rocks on the shore, the town boasts a beautiful array of restaurants and shops. The town is best explored on foot, taking you down narrow alleyways and into sheltered caverns. After a couple of hours along the coast, we drove inland and arrived at Ottolire with the hotel’s iconic angular buildings basking in the late afternoon sun. Nestled in the heart of the green hills of the Itria Valley, the property is the epitome of tranquility and serenity. The swimming pool was inviting, flanked by plenty of loungers and a small bar in a white shack where guests can order a refreshing cocktail or snack.
We checked in and enjoyed some downtime on the terrace of the property taking in the ambience of agricultural life in Puglia, which was not too intrusive considering the neighbouring farms. We had a mozzarella masterclass on our first evening which was fascinating. The process is simple but requires an expert craft-master to create the luscious and indulgent consistency of the cheese. We were then served a traditional Puglian selection of dishes for dinner in the hotel’s Vule Restaurant. We enjoyed local delicacies from burrata with fresh tomatoes to stracciatella served on top slices of bresaola.
The following morning we headed further into the valley on a cycling tour with an excellent local guiding company. Starting amongst some beautiful trulli houses on a local farm, we ventured further inland along a track specifically designated for bicycles which stretches all the way to the Parco Naturale Regionale Terra delle Gravine, offering guests the choice to go for a short ride or even a full-day excursion. After a woodland picnic, we took in the sights of Ostuni, another iconic and historic town of the region. With signature narrow streets and hidden alleys, Ostuni has plenty of charm and is an ideal place to spend a few hours before enjoying some lunch or an aperitivo and then returning to Ottolire. We happened to have one more stop before returning to the hotel, at Masseria Brancati, one of the oldest olive oil producers in the region. We toured their olive groves and were shown a tree 3,000 years old, offering us a moment of perspective as we took in the history of one of the most prominent industries and exports of the region.
On our second evening we were very lucky to enjoy the fine dining experience at Vule Restaurant. We sampled grouper fish ceviche, local mushrooms and grapes on freshly made bread, and of course delicious tortellini, cooked to perfection as one would expect. We were beginning to understand that meals in Puglia are particularly indulgent and relaxed affairs with plenty of time to digest between lavish courses of sumptuous local food. It was an insight into the sociability that goes with the Puglian culture: not only are your bellies full after a meal but your heart is too after being in such welcoming company.
On our final full day we partook in a truly special experience driving vintage Fiat Cinquecentos through local olive groves and along the coast. Starting in a Masseria dating back to the 18th century, we journeyed along the tracks of the groves out of the estate and onto the local rural roads down towards the coast. This is a one-off experience for any visitor to Puglia and one I would highly recommend for something memorable. The day trip was capped off with another pleasurable long meal at a local restaurant in the coastal town of Savelletri. We were welcomed in to the experience of a Pugliese Sunday lunch which is always a family affair where excellent food is served and wine is drunk long into the afternoon. It it common for Sunday lunches in Puglia to begin at 12:00 midday and go on until gone 17:00.
On our final evening we were joined by head chef Giorgio for a cooking masterclass. We made focaccia with tomatoes and olives, taralli (snacks made from dough commonly taken with an aperitivo) and orecchiette pasta, all of which we enjoyed at dinner in the Vule Restaurant that very evening. All of the other hotel guests seemed to enjoy what we had prepared! After dinner we walked out to the terrace and were greeted by three local musicians for an hour of revelry in the style of Tarantella, a group of southern Italian folk dances. The most special part about the Tarantella is that all of the hotel team from waiting, kitchen and reception staff came out to join us dancing and to bid us a fond farewell.
Before we departed for Bari Airport on our final morning, we visited two iconic hilltop towns in the Itria Valley: Locorotondo and Martina Franca. Locorotondo is a stunning white-washed town with the feel of a village overlooking the valley (population of only 14,000). The town has many picturesque winding streets and boutiques with an imposing cathedral the jewel in the crown. Martina Franca is a much grander town boasting its own Ducal Palace and stunning piazza where one could idly spend an hour sipping a coffee and gazing up at the town’s cathedral (population 49,000). Many of the towns streets are named after Italian cultural icons such as Alessandro Manzoni and Dante Alighieri, a much grander and bustling town compared to it’s sibling Locorotondo. After another delicious lunch which was definitely not as light as billed, we headed to the airport for our late afternoon flight back to the UK.
Upon reflection, I absolutely adored the charm and authenticity of Ottolire Resort. The hotel has retained it’s traditional ethos but blended this with a modern style and contemporary finish to it’s interior making it a standout luxury proposition. It works perfectly as part of a tailor-made itinerary where you could spend two or three nights before moving on to pastures new or it could serve the perfect base for a week of relaxation and exploration with a hire car. It is certainly somewhere that guests find very hard to say goodbye to.
