Just back from: Cinque Terre, Italy

Dotted along a gorgeous stretch of the Italian Riviera between Genoa and Pisa is the Cinque Terre, a collection of five postcard-worthy villages characterised by pastel-coloured houses set against a backdrop of dramatic cliffs. I didn’t know too much about this region of Italy prior to my recent visit, so I was excited to discover what this part of the country is all about – and I must say I was hugely impressed by what it has to offer. Here are the highlights of my trip.

Exploring Vernazza, Corniglia & Riomaggiore

My time exploring the Cinque Terre began in Vernazza, often regarded as the prettiest and most popular of the five villages – and with good reason. Its colourful Ligurian houses are huddled around a natural harbour with a small beach where it’s possible to take a dip in the sea, while the medieval Doria Castle offers superb views of the surrounding coastline. Upon arriving in Vernazza I spent a good while soaking up the atmosphere at the bustling harbour and meandering through the narrow cobbled streets, lined with plenty of charming cafes and restaurants.

The view of Vernazza from above

From here, we made the steep uphill climb to follow the coastal path that leads to Corniglia, where we stopped to enjoy a delicious and well-earned lunch of local seafood. The walk was 3.5 kilometres and took us around two hours at a fairly relaxed pace. Given the areas of uneven stone steps and steep inclines, reasonably good fitness levels are needed for this hike (particularly if attempting it in the heat of summer). Along the way, we passed a couple of small orange and lemon groves where local vendors were selling homemade lemonade and iced fruit drinks – the perfect refreshment while admiring the spectacular views.

Corniglia is the quietest and least touristy of the Cinque Terre villages, largely because there is no direct access from the sea and public ferries can’t dock there. As a result, it has a bit more of a low key, local feel to it. It’s a small place, but well worth the effort to get to, with characteristic colourful buildings clustered together on a cliff top overlooking the Mediterranean.

The natural harbour of Vernazza

We then continued our journey by train to the lively harbour town of Riomaggiore (the easternmost part of the Cinque Terre), which took just seven minutes. For anyone short on time or unable to attempt one of the region’s more demanding hikes, I highly recommend making use of the newly opened Via Dell’Amore footbridge from Riomaggiore to Manarola, which is the flattest and most accessible trail suitable for all fitness levels. This footbridge has been undergoing extensive renovations for almost 12 years and due to the huge renovation costs involved the National Park have decided to charge a €10 fee (payable locally).

Finally, we travelled by boat a little further along the coast to Porto Venere, a perfect way to round off our day exploring the Cinque Terre. For dinner we ate at a local restaurant called Casa Mare Portovenere, which specialises in fresh, locally caught seafood and has a prime location directly on the water’s edge.

Grand Hotel Portovenere

This five-star boutique hotel enjoys a fantastic location overlooking the marina, right in the centre of Porto Venere – a medieval fishing village just south of the Cinque Terre. It’s an excellent base for exploring the region, perhaps in combination with a stay in Pisa, Florence or Milan due to the region’s extensive rail connections. The hotel is housed within a former 17th-century convent which has been renovated to a very high standard with nautical-themed decor, drawing inspiration from the region’s maritime heritage.

Grand Hotel Portovenere

The service is truly excellent, the staff are super friendly and helpful with local recommendations, and the rooms, while on the smaller side, are extremely comfortable and equipped with all the amenities you could need. Each room is uniquely designed and retains original features of the convent, such as vaulted brick ceilings. A sea view room here is an absolute must – you won’t want to draw the curtains!

The breakfast offering is superb, with a plentiful choice of freshly baked breads and pastries, fresh fruit, smashed avocado, meats and local cheeses, along with a speciality coffee menu. Be sure to secure a table next to the window for wonderful views looking out across the harbour.

Palmaria Island

Just across the water from Porto Venere lies Palmaria, a small island carpeted in forest with a coastline characterised by sheer cliffs and beautifully unspoilt pebble beaches. It also has a significant military history, of which several remains can be seen today.

Ferry to Palmeria Island

We took a 10-minute public ferry to reach it before embarking on a short hike to a stunning viewpoint overlooking the sea. There isn’t much in the way of amenities on the island, but that’s part of its appeal; it’s a lovely place to escape to enjoy a few hours in nature before returning to the mainland.

Bagni di Pisa

I only stayed one night at Bagni di Pisa, but it was a truly special experience. This 18th-century palace was built as a summer residence for the Grand Duke of Tuscany, and today it serves as a luxurious spa retreat in the village of San Giuliano Terme – just 10 minutes by train from Pisa. I very much enjoyed relaxing in the thermal baths, which are said to hold myriad therapeutic qualities, before a soothing massage and a private 20-minute grotto experience. The spa is highly popular with day guests, so it’s certainly worth booking any treatments in advance.

Bagni di Pisa

The rooms here feel grand and opulent, and each one features unique decor and design elements, including the likes of 18th-century frescoes, vaulted ceilings and, in some cases, mezzanines. If your budget allows, I would suggest opting for a Junior Suite or higher for the most luxurious experience.

Relaxation is very much at the core of the hotel’s philosophy, and you really do feel immersed in the tranquil ambience from when you arrive until the moment you leave. Either for a standalone spa retreat, or as a base for exploring Pisa or the Tuscan countryside, I would definitely suggest making room in your itinerary for a stay at Bagni di Pisa.