Introduction
One of Africa's few remaining monarchies, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland) is also one of the smallest countries on the continent. Virtually swallowed by South Africa, it's often a stepping stone on the way from South Africa to Mozambique, but deserves to be a destination in its own right.
The Swazi capital Mbabane is a small, relaxed town close to the Ezulwini Valley, the regal heartland of the country.
There are a number of excellent, low-key wildlife reserves; Hlane Royal National Park is home to white rhinos, lions and a variety of antelope; Mkhaya Game Reserve is good for seeing black rhinos in the wild; Malolotja Nature Reserve offers superb walking safaris; Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary has some tranquil scenery through which you can mountain bike and good value lodges.
Visitors after activity and adventure holidays in Eswatini will want to tackle the white-water rapids of the great Usutu River; the river also has a dizzying 10m waterfall that's best avoided in a boat.