The northern city of Fez is to many, the heart and soul of Morocco. It's the country's oldest imperial city, the former capital and the site of the oldest continuously running university in the world - the university of Al-Karaounie, founded in 859. Here too is an ancient medina, the Fez el-Bali, the largest working medieval city in the Islamic world.

Fez el-Bali, Old Fez, is a labyrinth of narrow streets - none wide enough to fit a car - lined with cafés, restaurants, pretty riads, quiet courtyards and over 350 mosques. The medina's many souks sell anything and everything, from spices, henna, salt and fish to medicinal plants. The Dyers' Souk stocks leather dyed at the city's famous tanneries, which can also be visited.

Fez el-Jedid, the so-called New Fez, actually dates back to the 13th century. It's home to the Dar el-Makhzen - the Royal Palace - the Jewish Quarter and the peaceful Boujloud Gardens.